Serves 10
The fundamental challenge of roasting a whole turkey is that the breast is always done before the legs. If you can free your mind from the Rockwellian image of carving a whole bird table side, you’re going to have a much better Thanksgiving dinner. Braising the dark meat softens the connective tissue in the meat until it’s fork tender and as succulent as pulled pork (really!). Any leftover meat can be shredded and used for turkey hash, or tossed with pappardelle for a very elegant pasta.
6 bone-in, skin-on turkey thighs (about 5 pounds)
4 turkey drumsticks (about 3 pounds)
Kosher salt and black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
4 carrots, peeled and diced
3 stalks celery, diced
1 cup dry white wine
5 fresh sage sprigs, plus 1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
6 to 8 cups turkey or chicken stock
2 pounds shallots, peeled
2 cups pitted prunes
Red wine vinegar, to taste
Instructions: You’ll need either a very large oven-safe Dutch oven or braiser for this recipe. If you don’t have them, use two high-sided saute pans, or one high-sided saute pan and one Dutch oven, or even a heavy-duty roasting pan spanning two burners.
Remove the turkey drumsticks and thighs from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature. Season the pieces on both sides with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place the turkey thighs skin-side down in the cold, ungreased pan or pans in a single layer.
Turn the heat to medium-high and cook until the turkey skin has rendered its fat and is nut brown, about 8 minutes; at this point, the thighs should peel easily from the pan (if they do not, it’s likely because they are not sufficiently browned; avoid the urge to force them, which will cause the skin to tear). Turn the pieces and cook on the second side until lightly browned, for another 3 to 4 minutes. With tongs, transfer the browned thighs to a rimmed baking sheet and add the drumsticks to the pan; cook, turning, until they are browned all over, about 8 minutes, then add to the pan with the thighs.
Reduce the heat to medium. There will likely be rendered fat remaining in the pan, but if not, add a few tablespoons of olive oil, followed by the carrots, celery and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook, stirring, until the liquid has nearly evaporated, then drop in the sage sprigs. Return the turkey pieces to the pan, skin-side up in a single layer, and pour in turkey stock until the turkey pieces are three-quarters submerged (if you’re preparing this in two pans, simply divide the ingredients in half, cooking half in one pan and half in the other). Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the stock to a boil.
Cut a parchment paper circle to the same circumference of your pan. Cut a small hole in the center of the circle. Set the parchment circle directly on top of the turkey, then cover the pan with a lid or heavy-duty aluminum foil.
Transfer to the oven and cook for 1 hour 15 minutes, checking after the first 30 minutes to ensure the stock is bubbling gently; if it’s bubbling ferociously, decrease the heat to 300 degrees. Remove the pan from the oven, uncover, and add the shallots and prunes, pushing them down beneath the liquid. Recover the pan, return to the oven and continue cooking for 45 minutes more, until the turkey meat is very tender and the shallots are soft.
With a large spoon, transfer the turkey pieces, the shallots and the prunes to a warm serving platter and cover with foil. Pour the braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a measuring cup or fat separator. Let stand for 5 minutes, then skim the fat that has risen to the top and discard. Transfer the juices to a saucepan, add the minced sage, bring to a boil and boil until slightly reduced. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or a dash of red wine vinegar to taste. Alternately, you can use this ultra-rich stock for making traditional gravy.
Spoon some of the juices over the turkey and pour the rest into a gravy boat and serve alongside.
Make-ahead note: The braise can be prepared up to 3 days in advance. Let cool completely, then refrigerate (with the meat still in the braising liquid, otherwise it will dry out). Rewarm in a 300 degree oven until heated through, then strain and reduce the braising liquid as instructed above.