Makes 2 dozen
These plush, golden-hued rolls are perfect vehicles for soft butter, though they’re sturdy enough that you can use them to make miniature turkey sandwiches. If you want freshly baked rolls on Thanksgiving day but don’t want to do all the work on the big day, prepare the rolls up to the point of the second rise, then wrap tightly and refrigerate overnight. The next day, let the rolls rise at room temperature for a few hours, then bake.
¾ cup pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
½ cup lukewarm whole milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, soft at room temperature, plus more for greasing the pan and brushing
2 large eggs, plus 1 egg for egg wash
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2¼ teaspoons instant yeast
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 to 4¼ cups all-purpose flour
Nigella or poppy seeds, for sprinkling (optional)
Flaky salt, such as Maldon, for sprinking
In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon) combine the pumpkin puree, milk, butter, 2 of the eggs, brown sugar, yeast and salt and mix to combine.
With the mixer on low (or with a wooden spoon) gradually add the 4 cups flour until it has all been incorporated. The dough will be slightly sticky; if it’s very sticky, add additional flour by the tablespoonful. Mix for 5 minutes more, then transfer the dough to a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled, 1 to 1½ hours.
Lightly grease a 9 by 13-inch baking dish (or two 9-inch round pans) with butter. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and, with a bench scraper or knife, cut into 24 pieces (each should be slightly larger than a golf ball; about 40 grams, if you’re using a scale).
Working with one piece at a time, cup your hand over the dough, letting the heel of your hand rest gently on your dough and your fingers form a cage around it. Apply some light pressure to the piece of dough while simultaneously rotating your hand clockwise. The dough should catch on the work surface and tighten into a smooth ball. If you have too much flour on your work surface, the dough won’t catch so much as slide around; too little, and the dough balls will not so much catch as they will stick. Transfer each ball to the prepared pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until the balls are crowded against one another and very puffy, 1½ to 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a small bowl, beat the egg with 1 teaspoon water. Brush the egg wash over the rolls and sprinkle each roll with the seeds, if using, and a pinch of flaky salt. Bake the rolls until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, tenting the pan with foil at the end of the baking time if the tops are getting too dark. Remove from the oven and drizzle or brush with melted butter, if desired. Serve warm.
The rolls are best eaten the same day they are baked, but will keep, well wrapped at room temperature, for a day or two; rewarm before eating.